Counter Questions

Three measurements get you there — the diameter (across the shank), the thread pitch (threads per inch), and the length. Length is measured differently depending on the head, so check yours. Or just bring it in and we’ll size it in seconds. How to measure a fastener →

Very likely. A few sizes are near-twins — an M8 is almost exactly a 5/16″, and an M6 is close to a ¼″. They start, then bind. If a bolt threads a turn or two and fights you, stop and check the system. Metric vs. inch →

For a regular hex, round, or pan head, measure from under the head to the tip — the head sits on top and doesn’t count. For a flat (countersunk) head that sinks flush, measure the whole thing, head included. Measuring a flat-head →

The wrench size is the distance across the flats of the head, not the bolt’s diameter — a ½″ bolt takes a ¾″ wrench. The matching nut takes the same size. Wrench & socket chart →

Count the threads against a ruler over one inch — fewer is coarse, more is fine. Each diameter only comes in a couple of pitches, so once we know the size we narrow it fast. Or drop it on our thread gauge. Thread pitch chart →

It depends on the thread. Our chart gives the right tap drill for a clean, strong thread at every common size. Thread pitch & tap-drill →

They’re the grade — how strong it is. No lines is a Grade 2, three lines is a Grade 5, six lines is a Grade 8; structural bolts carry letters like A325. Higher grade = stronger bolt of the same size. Bolt grades chart →

Stronger, yes — but harder, a bit more brittle, and pricier. Thread, grade & finish →

One at least as strong as the bolt — a soft nut strips before the bolt does its job. Grade 8 wants a Grade 8 or A563 DH nut; A325 and A490 want a DH or 2H heavy hex nut. Nut compatibility →

It depends on the bolt’s size, grade, and lube. Our torque estimator gives a starting point — but if a manual or gasket calls out a torque, always use that. Torque estimator →

Both are zinc coatings — zinc plating is thin and shiny for indoor/light use, hot-dip galvanizing is thick and rough for outdoor and structural work. Finish guide →

Best to match metals. Mixing stainless and plain steel in a wet spot can speed up corrosion, and stainless-on-stainless can gall (seize) if run fast and dry. Tell us the environment and we’ll match the set. Nut compatibility →

Plain steel will — the finish is what fights rust. For weather and outdoor work, you want hot-dip galvanized or stainless. Finish guide →

It comes down to the base material and the load — wedge and sleeve anchors for heavy holds in solid concrete, concrete screws for lighter removable work, toggles for hollow block or drywall. Choosing an anchor →

Usually the steel is too thick for that screw’s drill point, so the point never breaks through before the threads hit. Step up the point size, or pre-drill and use a thread-cutting screw. Tapping screws →

That’s set by the flange size and pressure class. Our chart gives the stud count, size, and nut count (two per stud) for Class 150 and 300. Flange stud & nut chart →

Most tamper-resistant drives (pin-in Torx, spanner, tri-wing) just need the matching security bit, which we can identify and supply — bring the screw or a photo. One-way screws are the exception; they’re built not to come out. Drive & security ID →

Often, yes — that’s what the machine shop is for. Send us a print, a sketch, or the broken part and we’ll quote it. Custom machining →

If you truly need just one, we’ll break a box and sell you one — we’re not going to send you down the road over a single bolt. Here’s the honest tip, though: the package (standard) quantity is where the best price is. A full box or carton has the lowest cost per piece, while ones and twos take more to pull and ring up, so they cost more each. If you need more than a handful, ask for the package count — it’s almost always the better buy.